Ask anyone from Kerala about comfort food, and there is a good chance they will say fish curry and rice. It is red, spicy, a little sour, and so full of flavour that one plate is never enough.
The secret behind that tangy taste is kudampuli, also called Malabar tamarind. These small, dried, dark pieces are a kitchen staple in Kerala, and they give the curry its deep, smoky sourness. The good news is that this dish is much easier than it looks. You do not need fancy skills or a long ingredient list. Just a little patience and a good pot.
Let's cook.
Kudampuli is a fruit that is dried and smoked until it turns black and leathery. You soak it in warm water before using it. It gives a sharper, earthier sourness than regular tamarind, and it also helps the curry stay fresh for days, which is why Kerala households love cooking fish curry in advance.
You can find it in Kerala grocery shops, Indian stores, and online spices store. A few pieces go a long way.
Wash the kudampuli and soak it in half a cup of warm water for 15 to 20 minutes. Keep the soaking water, because it goes into the curry.
Wash the fish well and rub it with a little salt and turmeric. Keep it aside while you make the gravy.
In a small bowl, mix the chilli powder, turmeric, and coriander powder with a little water to make a smooth paste. This stops the spices from burning in the hot oil.
Heat 2 tablespoons of coconut oil in a clay pot or heavy pan. Add the mustard seeds and let them pop. Add the fenugreek seeds and cook for a few seconds until they smell nutty.
Add the ginger, garlic, green chillies, shallots, and half the curry leaves. Cook on medium heat until the shallots turn soft and light golden.
Lower the heat and pour in the chilli paste. Stir for a minute or two until the raw smell goes away and the oil begins to separate slightly. Do not let it burn, or the curry will taste bitter.
Pour in the water, then add the kudampuli along with its soaking water. Add salt and bring everything to a boil. Let it bubble for 5 minutes so the flavours come together.
Gently place the fish pieces in the gravy. Lower the heat, cover the pot, and let it simmer for 10 to 12 minutes, until the fish is cooked through. Do not stir with a spoon. Just hold the pot by its handles and swirl it gently so the fish stays whole.
Turn off the heat. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of raw coconut oil on top and add the remaining curry leaves. Cover and let it rest.
Nothing quite matches its taste, but in a pinch you can use a small lemon-sized ball of tamarind soaked in warm water, or a few slices of raw green mango. The flavour will be a little different, but the curry will still be delicious.
Steamed red rice or plain white rice is the classic partner. Add a simple thoran (stir-fried vegetables), some crunchy papadam, and a little pickle, and you have a proper Kerala meal. It also goes very well with tapioca (kappa), a combination many people in Kerala would call heaven on a plate.
A good Kerala fish curry does not need complicated steps. It needs fresh fish, good coconut oil, a little patience, and a few pieces of kudampuli doing their magic. Once you make it a couple of times, you will be able to do it without even looking at the recipe.
Cook it in the morning, let it sit through the day, and enjoy it at dinner. Your kitchen will smell wonderful, and your plate will be empty before you know it.
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